If you ever go to New Orleans, there are 3 imperative culinary destinations. They can all be visited on a budget, but bring cash! Sleep in, and about 11am, make your way down to Magazine St. in the Uptown. You'll spend a lot of time in New Orleans walking. It's how you get to understand the people, appreciate the culture, and fall in love with this city.
It all starts with your stomach. Plan for brunch at Slim Goodie's. I had the Cuban Omelette with avocado, and a side of hash browns. Amazing. And filling. Pay cash, and leave a hefty tip. A general rule is, for every $5 you spend, tip $1. More if the service was good! You should walk it off, or it will make you tired. So, head up the street and window shop a little. After all, the word, "Magazine" comes from the French "magasin", which is a shop. Thus Magazine Street is where the boutiques and shops are.
The world of New Orleans is so far removed from the West Coast vibe - it's ridiculous. People actually greet each other on the sidewalk. They stop and chat, perfect strangers. They sashay on down the street, and go about their business. But that brief conversation allows people to lend dignity to each other, to build a sense of community, of camaraderie. In post-Katrina New Orleans, that basic element of life has become so necessary to the survival of the shell-shocked people. It's also just downright pleasant.
After walking Magazine St., head home for a siesta, and get out of the heat a little. Type a blog about brunch. It deserves it, I'm sure you'll agree!
Perhaps after a driving tour of the Ninth Wards, or a playtime at Audubon Park, you're feeling a little bit hungry... Head back to Magazine St. and look for Juan's Flying Burrito. This is the perfect mix of Creole, Cajun, and Mexican. You have to get the Flying Burrito (the Namesake)... It's chicken, steak, shrimp, and so much more! Get chips and guac and salsa to appetize with. If your theology allows, suck down a Negro Modelo dark Mexican beer with your burrito. Now we're talkin'! Remember to tip big... It's your server's livelihood - and get to know their name, too! I remember Matt served us at Slim Goodie's, but I confess I don't remember our server's name at Juan's.
Now it's dusk, the perfect time to go check out a... graveyard? New Orleans is built on soft, swampy ground, and since the beginning of the Vieux Carre (the Old City, now known as the French Quarter), the dead have been interred outside the city in walled cemeteries with above-ground crypts. A family will buy a small plot, build a crypt, and bury their own their. When someone dies, a funeral procession goes from the church to the graveyard, led by a jazz band playing a slow somber dirge. The family puts the casket bearing the bones of the dead is interred above the ground in this crypt - literally, a bone box. As the procession leaves the cemetery, the jazz band is still playing the dirge. Once they pass under the gate, the trumpet player blasts a celebratory tune, and the band takes up the joyful chorus line. The procession dances and celebrates its way to the house of the bereaved family. They have gone from mourning their loss of the departed, to celebrating their life, and their passing into eternity! A meal and drinks are provided, and people stay late to talk and laugh. Every year on November 1st (All Saints' Day), the families return to their plot in the graveyard to tend their crypt, remember their dead, and mingle with other families there to do the same. Just another aspect of the culture that truly fosters community, and a unique sense of remembering...
The fact is, you're probably hungry again, and maybe a little tired from all that walking around. If you've gone to the first cemetery in the city (some people buried there lived during the Revolutionary War!), you're not far from the legendary Cafe du Monde. This reputable Euro-style cafe is open 24-7 just across the street from Jackson Square in the heart of the Vieux Carre. Walk on in under the awning, and sit at a table. Your server will come over and take your order. The menu is small and simple. Order a plate of beignet (fried dough topped with powdered sugar), and a cafe au lait apiece. Your server will fetch your order, and bring everone a water, as well. He or she will then tell you the total, and you will hand cash over. This is when you tip (remember the rule). Your server will not come back. Enjoy your beignet, coffee and conversation. People watch. Often there will be someone playing a saxophone or guitar out on the sidewalk. Enjoy the warm night, and that full feeling in your stomach.
